Did 3 laps today, 1st with dad, second with a mini TT built in for fun, and 3rd just trying to survive. Little over 4.5 hours. Is it just me or does riding in 32C for that long suck a little energy out of the body!? I actually felt pretty good for most of it, amazing what 4,000 calories and 15 hours of sleep will do for you.
Will take it easy tomorrow, might commute. Then I'll spend some time thinking about how I want the rest of this week to look, might take an afternoon off to do some riding.
But then I wake up Tuesday coughing and sick, and hack away all day?
Geez, that's no fun. I wanted to do the Tuesday night hammer.
Clearly, I must be sick of work?!
Looking at a map, I've decided to make my way from Craig to Rock Springs wia the less travelled route. I start on the 13/789 north, then head west on a road that doesn't have a number on my map, nor does it on the sign. There actuallly wasn't even a turn sign, it just had signs to various ranches and their distances once I was on it. Not a lot of traffic to say the least. I passed through the southern tip of the Jonah, and the middle of the Hiawatha gas fields. I took a bunch of pictures, passed through a desert flash flood storm, waded the Little Snake River, and basically just explored. I passed through Powder Wash and Hiawatha, which aren't towns, villages or even hamlets - they've made the map but are "camps", indicating they aren't permanent.
All in, it was about 200 miles, 120 of which were off road. I'm fairly certain that's the lowest population density area this side of Alaska. I saw one Slumberger truck, one Ensign truck and that was it. I don't think there were many repair shops catering to anything other than Dodge, Ford and Chevy trucks in the entire corner of the state. If I stayed any longer I would have had to buy a gun rack and spraypaint the Benz with desert camo, in the style of the locals. Beautiful scenery throughout, then drove up highway 430 to Rock Springs. There's a huge JR Simplot phosphates mine on the south end of town, and in general I couldn't really find anything appealing about the city. Judging by the size/quality/number of truck stops along the interstate there, it's a passing through point for many.
I make my way north along the 191, through numerous Wyoming towns. All the population signs show less than 200 people, hald don't make triple digits. Pinedale is the only one with a bit of critical mass, and seems like a really nice place. A ship shape looking car wash draws me in, to polish up my road trip mule before Bondurant and the beautiful road along the Hoback.
I make it into Jackson at about 9, and due to timing decide that I'll take part in the mountain bike race tomorrow. I sign out for the night in mountain biker ghetto style - sleeping in the car in the parking lot where race registration starts at 7:30 tomorrow. Let's hope the legs still have some juice left in them!
Took me till 10:30 to decide to leave, headed into town for a cafe with internet. Charged up my laptop, which apparently has a battery only run time of about 3 minutes, and downloaded pictures and GPS data and such. I think my SRM battery has given up, time to get that replaced. Spent about two hours there, it's an Italian place with lots of Giro photos on the walls, and TdF on tv, so I felt right at home. It's stinking hot out, and it looks like clouds are an hour or so away, so I'm not in a hurry to ride just yet.
After that I made my way over to Orange Peel to talk 29er specs with Brock, and to get yesterday's crit wear and tear taken care of on my bike. We managed to drag the niner talk out to over an hour... I'm sure in theory it could have been 15 minutes, but with me sitting in a director's chair, and Brock on his stool with a notepad, it had a very theraputic feel to it. He's been working in bike shops since he was 14, save for a year after university when he tried something else. He's the kind of guy who will tell you what's good, and what's junk, aside from profit margins on different products. "It's all about how it rides you know", "why buy a light part when all it's going to do is cause you headaches? This isn't about headaches, this is about a machine to keep your legs AND your soul in shape". He's right. I'm not just buying a bike, I could have done that anywhere. I'm buying a Moots, and have travelled all the way to Moots-land in the process. They're a hand built, piece by piece from the ground up premium product. I've met the builder responsible for my bike, and 4 different people have said that he's known to be one of the best ti welders in the world in the few days I've been here. I've heard stories of the processes, techniques and accompanying tools he's invented to improve the product and the trade. Ti bikes are in some ways "classic", as in "not modern". However many aspects are cutting edge, small improvements that either weren't present or feasible just a few years ago. The big 29er wheels are obvious, but so are the couplers and the Rolhoff hub. Or the invisibly improved gussets, the variable width seat tube with internally welded reinforcing. The YBB design is old, but useful and improved. Old doesn't always mean bad - the internal combustion engine is old too, but it's modernized and fit to each application appropriately. I hope in the end it rides nice and is low maintenance, and accompanies me on new bike adventures.
Over to riding, I was pointed in the direction of Emerald mountain, which has the rodeo grounds, ski jumps, ski hill, skateboard park, and other public facilites at it's base. From Orange Peel's door to 30 miles of winding singletrack covering a thousand feet of elevation is about 150m. I'm not sure how you top that.
I climb a long gravel road up to "the quarry" which is a rock outcrop where you can quench your thirst and watch Steamboat below. I continue upward to the cell phone towers, a steep climb. All in it's 45 minutes, and I'm sort of dogging it. I follow the road to a US FAA signal tower for air traffic, then turn back down the road for a kilometer and dive down into some singletrack. It's buffed smooth and is fun, fast riding. I keep doing loops till I end up back at the quarry, where naturally I turn right back up the lung busting cell tower road and do another couple of laps. The clouds finally open up and pour, so I head down in the slick mud before I get too chilled. The downside of the buff singletrack is that it turns to grease in the rain and becomes unrideable fairly quickly. All in I manage 2 hours of riding... so not exactly a rest day, but without the intensity of the hammer or the crit, I think the legs will feel a little more energetic tomorrow.
I wash up my bike in the river, which is surprisingly warm, and as some kids on inner tubes go by, I take the hint and float long enough to clean myself off as well. I change during the last bit of showers, putting on my souvenir Orange Peel shirt, the only long sleeve I have with me other than a jersey that's in the tent.
I grab a coffee from the shop next to the bike store, and notice a discreet sign on the space next door: Kent Eriksen Bicycles". He's the founder of Moots, and as I understand it, isn't involved in the company any longer. By peeking through the window, it appears he's still got the bug, as he's got a skunkworks looking machine shop with [prototype] frames and parts all over the place. Good location, not far from coffee and suitable test trails...
A quick stop by Safeway for some veggies, of which I now notice there aren't a whole lot available. Amy at Moots said this town was lacking a little on the fresh produce side, and now that I have that in mind, it is fairly noticeable.
3 hour campfire to unwind, then bed! I'll study my map, will start heading north again.
The route goes northwest, out past Clark, the right on a secondary road toward Mt. Zirkel and a campground called Seedhouse. There might even be a town there, but roadwork had us turn around 2 miles before getting there. The road is false flat for the whole 40k out, but with nice rollers. No real climbs per se. I figured if I could hold in with the group to the turnaround, all would be well as I've always been good at holding tempo on slight downgrades like the way back. 4 of us make it out to the turnaround together.
After the turnaround, we started chatting a bit. The guy who seemed strongest of the four of us was wearing full Moots kit and riding a Vamoots SL. Said he'd been in Steamboat for 10 years, but grew up in Portland. I asked him what brought him here, and he said building bikes. He'd built a few on his own prior, but then started working at Moots. I mentioned I currently had an order in for one. He asked my name. "Erik from Canada?". Yup. "I did the drawings for your YBB, and have started building it. Cool. Knuckles of respect went both ways after figuring that one out.
The pace picks up, and we're all having fun on the way back as the pace is around 50kph for the first while. About halfway back, attacks start. Moots ends up breaking away, with me second, and another guy behind me. I can't bridge up, so I hold a comfortable pace and wait for guy behind to work his way up to me. We battle for a while, and before you know it we're at the town limits, huffing and puffing and all bleary eyed. Talk about a good high intensity workout. Especially since Steamboat is 100 ft lower than Canada's highest paved road (town is like 6,900 ft, and is Colorado's lowest evevation ski town).
I guess my body responds well to rest, relaxation, training and good nutrition I guess, even if it is cramming!
Planning on another 3-4 hour mountain bike ride, then will head into town for a coffee shop where I can charge up my laptop and relax in the sun again for a while. Might even take a lift up the ski hill to take a few photos and walk around.
One thing I'll certainly make time for is a tour of the Moots factory, and I'll probably buy a jersey or some other souvenir.
I end up riding about three hours this morning, on portions of the great divide trail. I'm tired from last night, this is a low end aerobic/recovery ride, with some good technical skills building along the way - the trails here are great for that. I stop at my halfway point to eat and take in the sights and sounds... birds calling, fish jumping, and wind in the trees. I could sit here for hours I think, if I didn't want to get down to the Moots factory today.
I stop by Wal-mart on the way into town to pick up a new foil for my shaver, other one tore and wouldn't be pleasant to use to say the least. From there it was over to Orange Peel to buy a souvenir shirt, the guys at the shop have been very friendly thus far, it's a place I'd recommend to anyone. Bikes seem to be a much more integral part of this town than home... commute to anywhere is short, so lots of people use it as default transportation. I've seen a lot of groceries being carried, and I've now seen 3 dogs lucky enough to be carried around in handle bar baskets.
Directions to Moots are easy, just hang a right off the road where the hammer ride left town. It's a nice looking building in a nice "industrial" park. Dave, the marketing guy who answered my first email inquiries, and whom I met at Orange Peel upon arriving here, was first guy I bumped into. He gave me a full tour of the place. It's pretty fascinating to see how slabs of ti, and tubing, go through so much process to get to the end product. Moots especially makes a lot of small parts from ti on their own, just examiming any of their frames will show how they do a dozen or so extra labour intensive pieces.
I chat with Brad, the frame builder doing my bike, and see the tubes on the floor which will eventually become my bike. He shows me how many niners they've done with S&S, and my mind races. That's what I actually wanted, I just couldn't get it confirmed properly through email first that it was entirely packable in the travel box. He says the YBB ride on the niner wheel size is awesome, and proves to me with a frame right there that it fits in the box no problem. I ask if I'd be using up more than my share of karma points to switch to a niner at this point. "Not at all man, I'll switch it first thing tomorrow". This makes me incredibly happy.
After that, I head up to see Amy, the office manager girl, for some souvenirs - a t-shirt and jersey. She's been in Steamboat for a year, and is working two jobs to make it happen. From Masachussets originally, and was always a cyclist, so feels like she just arrived in heaven. On top of that, her first Moots frame is only a couple of weeks away from delivery. She recommends a coffee shop nearby that I can grab a snack at before the crit starts.
Crit starts around Moots building at 6:25. We're geared up to do 35 minutes plus five laps, with about 20 people in the field. Mark, one of the Orange Peel employees, and a junior national XC skier, appears to be the one with the legs. I'm tired after doing two warmup laps, the course has about 10m of vertical per lap on one climb, a bunch of chicanes, and is generally just a sweet crit course. First five laps aren't too hot, then things get moving. Somewhere around lap 10, I'm riding in 4th, and the fellow in front of me decides to take a 90 degree left turn lying down. I don't really have any option other than to run into/over him, and when my front wheel hits his front chainring, it's like Texas chainsaw massacre for my tire. The exploding tire get's the attention of everyone who wasn't already freaked out. I see a large tree straight ahead, and hope our momentum dies out before hitting it. I come up completely unscathed, as I only fell once we hit grass. Buddy has enough road rash for the two of us, he'll be sticking to the sheets for the next 10 days for sure. I find out after the race that he's an ex-Canadian freestyle ski team coach? Never caught the name, will have to look it up.
Someone lends me a wheel, and I chase for two laps to rejoin the fun. By this point, the lead group is fown to 6. I bridge up and sit in to rest for a while. I'm taking the crash corner really wimpy and am losing time each lap, which means the hill is harder each time for me as I also need to close a 4m gap each lap. All goes well for another few laps until buddy in front of me flats on the fast straightaway, with fishtailing and leg outriggering all thrown in for fun. The thought of counting my blessings and abandoning here crosses my mind, but why cut a workout short when I'm having fun, and haven't been dropped yet?
An older fellow puts on the gas for a lap, and Mark and I are the only two to stay with. He blows up spectacularly, leaving just the two of us. Mark does another hot lap, then settles in. At this point, I'm content and don't feel the need to repeatedly attack him - considering I got a 3 lap rest with the crash/walk to pit/find a loaner wheel ordeal. Plus it seems like the whole scene really means something to him, and I'm just here for a workout. We trade pulls for the last few laps, then sprint the last 50m up the hill to the finish. I make up my "crappy corner" deficit with 20m to go, and get neck and neck. At that point I sit up, smile, and pedal across the line with his wheel crossing two feet ahead. I'm happy that everyone survived, and that my regimen of 3 hour base rides in the morning with the 1-2 hours of intensity at night is working just fine.
We shoot the shit for a while after, and I find out the other guy who I raced into town with last night is a XC kid of some acclaim, I'll have to look him up when I'm back on a computer. Everyone speaks highly of him no doubt. As the parking lot cleared, Brad was just locking up Moots, and had heard about the crash as buddy was in the building for some cleanup.
I stop for a bag of ice and some M&M's, then cruise up to refresh in Dumont lake and make dinner. Weather looks ominous, but it has every night and hasn't amounted to much yet. As I pull into camp, I see the fully loaded bike touring couple who were stopped 4/5ths of the way up the pass this afternoon setting up their camp. I stop to say hi, Sarah and Morgan are touring the western states. I let them know that I've got a giant toolbox of bike stuff, more than any tourer would carry, should they need anything. They seem happy at the offer, so now it's nothing but some gourmet mountain cooking and rest!
I ride to the trailhead I turned around at yesterday, which is a "road" that's navigable by any appropriate vehicles. From the trailhead I do an hour out and back, turning around at Long Lake. The singletrack is beautiful dry piney forest bed. My bike is working flawlessly, the hubs have been fixed up nicely and the Brain decided to function again. The trail is flat but rolling, there's not really any elevation to be gained or lost here now. I'm in awe of how much fun I can have with my glued carbon and air spring plus damping valve toy. It's amazing what technology and engineering can accomplish. My photos speak to the elevation as there aren't even mountains in the background, it's just alpine meadows at 9,800 feet. It's about 100 miles south there the peaks still jut up another 4,000 feet higher.
The trails are suitable for beginners, and are fun for experts. I can ride along at 12km/h easily or have a blast trying to hold 25km/h. Made it out to Long Lake, then just sat and enojoyed. The temperature was low 20's, there wasn't a bug in sight save for a few dragonflies, and I could watch nature to it's thing in pure silence. I can't remember the last time I felt so relaxed.
I hammer on the way back, the trail continuously winds left and right, up and down. It's fantastic. I stop to take a picture overlooking my bathtub (Dumont Lake) when I can see it. The last 5k is a gravel road with some waterbar jumps, then I coast into camp for lunch. I've got an easy chair, a log to rest my feet on, and so much fresh air my lungs just might clog up with pine tar. I pack up and head over to the lake, then head into town for a few supply stops and a trip to the laundromat. Group road ride starts at 5:30.
I'm glad I did. The road from Savery through the park is devoid of traffic, beautiful, and freshly paved. I pulled off at a scenic stop and got the road bike out for a cruise. I stopped at basically the high point, coasted back down the hill, then climbed up.
Erik: How far did you ride?
Erik: About 50km, but with lots of climbing... took about 2 hours.
Erik: How many cars did you see?
Erik: Two. And the road was all fresh asphalt. Heavenly.
I kept reading the roadside turnout signs as I went, we're near the continental divide trail and in an area that's been used since the mid 1800's. First it was Basque and Mexican sheep herders, then copper boom, then ranching and outdoor tourism. One sign early on advised me of the Rudefeha Mine that was active between 1898 and 1908, and was 16 miles off the road going north. After I was done biking and had a shower, I pulled over for another history sign, which happened to be the Rudefeha Mine turn. The road said equestrian, hiking, biking and 4x4 was allowed. Off I went!
2 hours of exploring had me do 4 river crossings, a picnic, and checking out the mine site. I'm rather impressed at the basic offroad capability of the yuppie mobile. My GPS told me there were sections of 16% grade, and I don't think I ever felt a wheel slip once. It was actually pretty relaxing. If I'd had my dirt bike instead of a car, I think the road would have taken 1/3 as long, but that's ok.
After that, it was a 2.5 hour drive to Steamboat. Not many towns over 100 people in between, but did see Encampment, WY and Walden, CO, the only two "big" enough to make the map.
Rabbit Ears pass is being worked on heavily, so no road riding that. But made it into town and by fluke made it to within a block of Orange Peel Bikes before checking my blackberry maps. Brock treated me like a king, got someone started on fixing the Epic right away, then showed me the parts that are showing up for my Moots. I've now got first hand info on riding, camping, and local group rides. Heading up to make camp for the night and do a little mountain bike ride from the camp ground.
Set up camp at the top of Rabbit Ears pass, a camp site set up near where the old road went at Dumont Lake. In fact, the area map I bought brom the bike map shows the continental divide going through the campground (it's 20m away from my site judging by the monument), and I'm at 9,600 feet. After setting up camp, I ride for an hour on the continental divide trail. I'll do a singletrack loop tomorrow, and can't forget my camera. I actually didn't feel like I was challenged by the altitude climbing, but that's just cause I go my own pace. If I was riding next to someone from here I think it'd be a different story all together.
Got a one match fire going and had dinner while witting in my easy chair. A couple from Wisconsin who are RVing charge up my GPS for me while I cook, eat and swim in the lake. I'll ride here in the morning, have lunch, then head down to Steamboat to do laundry and look for internet plus a coffee while I wait. After that it's nap time till 5:30 when a group road ride leaves Orange Peel.
Continued taking in the sights along the drive to Jackson, then proceeded immediately to Jackson Hole ski area for some mountain biking. Been driving too much, and need to burn off some steam. Ski areas are good for riding - even if they don't have an abundance of singletrack, they're guaranteed to have a lot of vertical, and cat roads. Not everyone's cup of tea, but perfect for me.
I unpack the S-Works and start heading up from the village. About 15m up the hill, I realize the rear end is boingy-boingy. Hmmm... The Brain doesn't seem to be working to lock out the rear. Oh well, more comfy and better exercise I say. Then I notice resistance. Stop and check that - brake's rubbing a bit. Oh well, better training. I hop on and ride for 3 more meters then stop. Rear wheel seizes. I can spin it freely in reverse by hand... and then it spins forward too. But no hub engagement. Argh. Thanks Mavic for putting a gnat's ass worth of grease in there to start with, these things have probably 10 hours use max so far this year, and that's rounding up (I've really only been using this bike for racing).
I coast down to the base and check out the repair shop, but their mechanic is away for the day. The guy that's there says he doesn't know hubs, and doesn't know what to do. I ask to borrow a rear wheel, but none of the rental fleet has the small rear disc brake rotors like mine. Guy again says he doesn't know what to do. I briefly think about going for a road ride, but then he says "well why don't I just give you a rental bike". I tell him I'm willing to pay, but he says he won't take any money as it's their fault they can't fix it. Instead of arguing I put my pedals and tool pouch on pronto and start scaling the mountain. I've got a green Ironhorse Warrior, which rides as good as you'd expect for a freebie. At least I'm riding, but I can say I've never ridden a bike with a front shock that felt worse than a rigid fork, and rear suspension that seems designed to reduce rather than gain traction while climbing, and not do much for the bumps on the way down either. Anyway, it's about 40lbs, which will be a good workout (the frame says "Aluminum" in block letters - must be solid to weigh that much).
I climb to the top of where they allow you to go, takes about 90 minutes. I think it was 900m elevation gain and about 8km. Pretty steep overall. I find a fun trail on the way down, then do a few other singletrack loops for 3h total riding. I have to time my arrival back at the shop before it closes.
Walking back to the car, I see a Snake River Lodge and Spa across the parking lot. I figure I'll drop by to see if I can hit up the spa for a shower. Lady at the desk says spa access is $45. I tell her I've got a price between $0 and $45 that I'm willing to pay for 10 minutes in and out. Unwilling to take on the responsibility of such negotiation herself, she calls her manager, who says $25 will do. I say thanks but turn around and start leaving. The manager asks what's wrong. Considering I've got a key to my yuppie mobile in one jersey pocket, and my wallet in the other with probably $700 of US + CDN, you'd think either I'd cave or they would. Either I'm cheap or I've got a sense of value still. I figure I'll hit the Snake River by the bridge near town where everyone was swimming this afternoon - which is more fun anyway. So far my grand total for camping and showers has been $12 (just by Babb). The one last night had no "toll box" thing or whatever you call them, I'm pretty sure it was set up to be free.
I've swam in rivers or lakes twice a day minimum so far, feels good. I've decided that between air temperature and water temperature, it sure saves a lot of hassle to be a "price taker" and just take whatever temperature nature dishes out.
Started the night drive, the 189 south of Jackson is a beautiful road riding road - as long as you climb it going westward. From there it flattens out and straightens out, nothing but bald arid high prairie. Got passed on the interstate by a bunch of squad cars going mach speed, but uneventful otherwise. Set the cruise control and see how long I can last before feeling tired, which ended up being the corner of I80 and 789.
Did my last minute packing, then headed over to Canadian Tire and MEC for some last minute items. By the time I was rolling out of the south end of the city it was around 11. Honestly, I didn't feel motivated to leave. All the hassle of traffic and getting out of town had me asking myself why I'm not lounging on the couch right now.
It was high 20's on the thermometer, but I didn't feel like using AC. I spend my whole life in offices, nder flourescent lights, with alarm clocks, popup calendars to remidn me to do things, and non stop phone and email input. I eat when it's available rather than when I need to. Gonna switch that up for a bit here... Wake up when sun rises, go to sleep when sun sets and fire dies down. Gonna go with the temperature mother nature gives me and drive with the windows down. This week I was probably eating 4,000 calories a day in the form of Stampede breakfasts, lunches and dinners and booze.
I stopped in Nanton for gas, and realized the car wasn't looking so hot. Just like me, it needed a little rejuevenation. I bought some wheel cleaner to dissolve all the break dust, some tire spray, and headed for the car wash. A clean car is a happy car, and now it's gleaming and looking ready for a road trip.
Next stop was Cardston, for 5 gallons of water, a veggie tray, and a stop at the bank for some US money. It was luxurious being outnumbered by tellers 3:1 and being in and out in 5 minutes, and being able to park right outside (even though bank was on main street).
I went west on #5 over to the waterton side of the park. The Chief Mountain Road then crosses the border and connects to Babb, Montana. What a gem of a road, it's beautiful, low traffic and great pavement. I decided after finding camping I'd go back and ride it. All of a sudden things started clicking. The mountains remind me of my favourite sign, just outside Radium, that proclaims "The mountains shall bring peace to the people".
Montana instantly has a feel of freedom to me. Not just in the personal sense that I've unplugged and now started relaxing, but the helmetless bikers, fireworks and gun racks just serve as little reminders that big brother doesn't strain himeself too much out in this neck of the woods.
I found camp near Duck Lake. I'm a few miles back on a tertiary road that connects to the main secondary road in these parts. To say it's quiet is an understatement. I hear trees blowing in the breeze and some running water.
I head out on my ride, and my shifting is off. 1/2 turn of barrel adjuster and it's perfect and crisp, love it when stuff works out simple. I didn't bring enough food, but did that on purpose. I'm going to ride a moderate pace to ease in, no sense starting in high gear to shock the system after the week of Stampede boondoggle. I want to ride empty for a while, brain is asking for something different after a week of excess.
The temperature is beautiful, shorts and jersey and not a single reason to bring anything else in the pockets. I ride back over to the border along Chief Mountain road and ponder the peak as I make my way around it. A sign says it was special to the natives as a tool that helped them clarify their vision and path, a guide for them. I can't doubt it at all, because it's helping guide me. My mind is burying the issues that occupy it while I'm in the city, and in it's place I smell nothing but fresh trees and meadow flowers, with my heart pounding and sweat rolling down my arms.
It's so clear that the things I've always loved haven't changed one bit over the last 10 years. University and career have shaped what I am from the outside, but what's inside hasn't changed a bit. It just get's drowned out by the white noise of life for periods.
I ride 50k out, and sit at a bench that overlooks the Waterton park valley. I hammered up the last few kilometers to the bench to burn myself out - I want to be at the furthest point and tired. I don't feel too energetic overall, but I want to make my tired legs work more to get me home.
I think I ate 3,000 or so calories today, but also fit in a 100k ride with a lot of vertical. When I'm out of office I don't seem to even think about eating as much, it seems I revert to the base version of myself. It's nice to snack on farmer's market stuff instead of our junk food closet at work.
My blackberry doesn't even get signal out here for phone... just one more reason Montana symbolizes the free.
